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October Crown

On the 12th of October, I will attend the October Crown.

I'm very excited to do my first SCA camping event.  I realized that I have to prepare some garb for this event.

I'll take my Eowyn Refugee & the Luthien.  Since this event is three days, I'll need at least one more dress.

I'll probably need a cloak of some kind and assorted veils.

So today I've started by washing my 100% Linen in Indigo Blue.  I want to make a button down or laced gown called a cotehardie or cotte. Here are some examples of what style I'm looking at and you can see the resemblance to Eowyn's Refugee Dress.

First Photo:  Here is what the washed blue linen looks like.

Second Photo: Short sleeves and deep V neck is very attractive

Third Photo:  From Braveheart, button down

Forth Photo: side lacing

Fifth & Sixth Photos:  Unicorn Tapestries

7_21_07

So I'm in the design stages and have to pick colors and style of gown.  Here are two ideas.

I have blue linen (photo above), Yellow, white and a greenish-blue.  I'll line the bodice area only.  Skirt to be about 117 to 120" in diameter.

7_26_07

More on the color combo that I can do:

   
 

I like the blue & white as well as the blue & yellow.  I think I'll go the the A & S gathering tomorrow.  I may get some better idea of what to use for colors. 

7_27_07

I can't believe what I did.  Cut the Outer Gown as I should have the inner yellow one.  Such a dummy I am.  Well all is not completely lost, but the dress or Cote will look different from my designed one above.  So I will abandon this blue for now and first work on the yellow linen gown or kirtle or cote...whatever you want to call it.

I'm going to plan this out first.  It will be cut like my Tudor Smock.  Square neck, narrow sleeves with an underarm gusset.  I'll have to work on the numbers first .

7_31_07

Yellow Linen kirtle

Ladies whether High born or low wore an undergown. 

   

Cut out the front & Back of the gown.  Cut the gussets.  Cut the sleeves. Ready to cut the skirt gores.  I'm going to add gores to front, back and sides.  Gores will be from the hip.  Like the Tudor Smock, I will cut out the neckline last.  This gown should just slip on like the Tudor Smock.

8_4_07

Cut out the gore pieces and letting them hang.  Sleeves were hanging from the shoulder so that should be OK.  Found that I don't have any yellow thread!  Two spools of polyester from my mom's old stash don't count.  So off to JoAnn's to get the thread.  I really don't need yellow thread, the white thread works just fine, however, I now have yellow thread for any top stitches I may need to do.  Side gores are sewn and pined to the sides.

 

8_5_07

I've sewn the remaining gores for the front & back, but have to flat feld the seams.  I'll do that this weekend...I'm apprehensive about cutting the kirtle's front and back.  I'll have to wait till I finish the gores to make sure that I cut them the exact length needed.  This method will align the bias cut to a straight cut which will stabilize the gores.  The kirtle should have a lot of body to the skirt hem.

 

8_10_07

Not feeling very well today, summer colds suck.

However, I did get all the gores sewn in except the very tops, they will be done by hand.  Sleeves have been done and gussets sewn.  All those seams will have to be finished but I just don't feel like it right now.

All those photos show the kirtle inside out.  The central gore seams are all flat feld, the others are just plain.

Lots of hand finishing to do yet and the neckline to cut out and face.  If I'm going to add trim, I'll need to do that as well.

I've sewn the sleeves to 3/4 length and I'll hand finish the rest of the sleeve open and figure out a way to close them up when I need them closed, something like Eowyn's Refugee.  This way I can roll up the sleeves when I need to and keep them down when it's cold.

8_11_07

Too sick to sew.  I've put the cut out outer surcote over the cotehardie to get an idea of what it will look like.  I think I'll try to curve the front upward rather than leave the straight edges.  Why make this easy.

Back to cold medicine.

8_15_07

I'm having some troubles getting the point of the gore into the slashed area and having it lay flat.  I get weird puckers here and there.  I also read some very bad advice on the internet and screwed up the slash area.  It sounded like a good thing but it wasn't. 

8_18_07

Almost finished, I put the facing on for the square neckline.

Photo 1  facing

Photo 2  facing front

Photo 3  facing back

Photo 5 neckline

I'm very pleased in how it came out, even if I had to do a seam twice.  I cut out a 13" square piece of linen and marked in washable ink a 2 inch border all the way around.  The facing is placed on the outside of the cote .(photo 1)

I pinned it to the opening matching the 2" mark for the back.  I then hand sewed all the way around on the border (blue marker) and cut away the excess in the center leaving about 1/4 inch.  I sniped the corners on both the inside & outside edges (photo 2) Back is shown on (photo 3).

I finished the edges then flipped the facing to the inside and ironed.  The last two photos show the overall look. 

I need to hem and finish the sleeve closures.  Once I finished the blue outer gown, I think I'll revisit the center gore, It's bugging me and I'll have to make it right.

8_31_07

Finished the hem on the facing.  Took a photo of it on.

Yellow Linen Kirtle

Still have the hem, but the fit is good.

9_01_07

Got a bit of sewing done today.

I did the seams by hand on the facings for the neckline and sleeves of both gowns.  I still have the hems to do on both and add the lacing holes on the sleeves of the yellow and the font on the blue.  So I did two practice eyelets (above 2nd photo)  They were quite easy, but I see that to get them perfectly round will take some practice, but these are the very first two I've ever done, so I don't know why people make such a very big deal about them.  Now I do think I need to make a facing for the linen.  I don't think it will hold up even though there will not be a lot of strain on these eyelets.  I'll see what I feel like and how much time I have to hunt for some silk tabby ribbon.

Since the top of the front gore was bugging me, I pulled it out and re did it as well.  It looks much better now.  Only I will see it, but I'm much happier about the seam.

9_15_07

Lots of eyelets.  Made eyelets for the blue cote and made 6 each for the yellow sleeves.  pined the hem for the yellow and trimmed it.

I tried them on and they fit.  Almost done now, but the day is done and time for bed.  Maybe I can work on the eyelets during the week and get the hems done too.  I'd like to get this finished.

9_16_07

Got more eyelets sewn tonight, I think I will stop at 16 for the front closing of the blue cote.  I have a natural photo and one with the flash.  I have also a photo of my handy dandy awl for making the eyelets and yes it is a bamboo chopstick which has been sharpened in a pencil sharpener.  It works great!

A pair of eyelets to do yet on the yellow sleeves and then it's just the hems.

9_17_07

Got the hem on the yellow kirtle.  Went to the Joann's sale today and got material for a blanket.  I'll use it on cold nights and as a wrap as well.  If the weather is good, I'll drape it over my chair (which is metal and very modern) to hide it.   It's so nice to have a project that can be completed in a day.  I had some issues with getting everything straight.  The Linen does not stretch and the fake fur wants to.  Next the hem on the blue cote. (finished hem in the evening)   I'm so glad it rained today, these were great projects to do and I don't feel guilty about not going out for a bike ride.

Fake Snow leopard and lined in an embroidered linen both on sale.

9_22_07

Photos of the finished dress.

Cote & Kirtle for the 15th Century An extra layer for those cold mornings

Now on to head coverings

9_23_07

Here are the items for headware: top is a veil, bottom left is the whimple and bottom right is the hat.  I'm sure they have medieval names, but I don't know them off the top of my head.

9_27_07

Link to the Few Photos taken at October Crown.  I was so busy that I didn't get many.  I'm still very very tired and will do a write up later.

It's been a week since Crown, boy I didn't realize how tired I got.  It wasn't like I did anything too hard.

Friday...Had the day off from work.  I had packed up the car the night before, so I went out and got a flashlight at Target and a cheap rain poncho.  Flashlight ... very good and handy:  Ponch...it was basically a plastic bag and a cheap one at that..waste of money.

Since I had some time left, I took my daughter to breakfast at a little coffee shop nearby.  Yum, scrambled eggs, toast, hash browns and link sausage.  Coffee nice and hot.  It was perfect.  Said my goodbyes for the weekend and drove down to Tres Pinos.  It was about 1.5 hour drive and I went right past the entrance and had to turn around.  When I got into the site, Catherine was there too so after we paid our site dues of $12.00 for the weekend, I followed her.  Sevinn was already there along with Freyland setting up their pavilions.  Freyland set up the Spartan tent, pretty much by himself.  We set about getting our things out of the cars and the tents up between raindrops.  Around this time Isalla arrived.  My tent went up first, then we set about getting Catherine's up.  The winds started then, very strong.  I had to stake my tent since it went flying and almost got a car in the process.  Catherine's tent was almost blown flat and she has a big tent.  We later found out that her poles got bent and the rain flap collapsed against the tent and caused leaks.  Isalla's tent stretched too, but didn't leak.  She was facing the wind.  We went out to dinner with Iuletta at Chevy's.  And were able to ogle the photos she had from a recent visit to the Manchester Museum and the V&A.  Such lovely embroideries I can't explain.  I had a Long Island Ice Tea (never had one before)  It was a very good time and lots of laughs as well.  I went to bed and woke briefly to a banging sound but went right back to sleep.

Saturday:  I woke to find that several tents had gone up during the night right next to me.  I had slept through most of it.  The day was foggy and lots of condensation on everything.  I have to say it was wonderful that there were flush toilets located behind the grandstand area.  I do enjoy modern comforts.  There was court in the AM and the kneeling carpets were presented by the guild.  Then the Merchants started to open and the fights began.  I didn't watch the fighting much, I will eventually get to that.  I went shopping instead and met and was introduced to a lot of people by Catherine or Isalla.  Then there was the Guild Meeting and an embroidery lesson and then Iuletta came by with her computer and I drooled over the elizabethan things she had photographed.  The prince was decided and he crowned his princess.  He will step up to King at Twelfth Night (I think).  Then it was time for dinner!  Sveinn made a tri tip and we had homemade wine, salad and pasta with croissants and butter.  Dessert was chocolate (2 of them) cakes.  Catherine and I walked around and met more people. Congratulated Randel on his award and he gave us glow necklaces.  Many had them on and with the limited light it was easy to see the children running around.  The main gathering was in the Eric near the Darkwood Pavillion.  It was quite amusing to see how creative people got with their glow sticks.  Felicia had made a grouping of three on her Vicking jewelery.  I was glad I'd made my faux fur blanket, I used it over my shoulders as it got cold when the sun when down and it was near midnight when I got to my tent.

Sunday:  Got into my Luthien gown and they liked the embroidery around the collar.  I told them it was elvish and they got a kick out of that.  They embroider viking and the elvish looked very similar.  I'll keep to that then. They had meetings to attend, so I took another look at the merchants row and I'm glad I did.  I got a blue leather belt for only $20.00, my other belts have been from Oberon and cost me twice as much!  The King and Queen held Court and that was a long one and I stood for the whole thing which was 1.5 hours.  It was about 11am when court was over and everyone started to pack up.  So I got home about 1:00pm and was very happy to be home.  For some reason, I did get a very little bit sick while packing up.  I had to sit down for a while to cool off.

I have to say that the fine silk gauze I used for my wimple was the very best thing in the world.  It acted like sun-block and was not too hot.  The Linen gown I made was wonderful to walk around in and I found that I can't run in the Luthien.

I would/will go again.

Epilogue

10-20-07

The silk tape I put on the sleeves was done incorrectly and the edges started to slip out and the fabric was fraying in the wash.  I purchased some cotton twill tape and now have sewn that to the edge of the material of the sleeve by machine.  I turned up the edge and hand sewed the tape down.  I hope this will hold.  It looks a lot better inside.

I also see that the material has really faded a lot in just a year and only several washings in cold water and hang drying. 

Oh, Yes, and after a year, I'm getting to the unfinished seam allowances and doing them all by hand as well.   Again, I didn't realize that the stitches should be tiny tiny, so these are way too big.  It's all a big learning experience for me.

4_25_08

I guess I was in a hurry and of cource I plead ignorance of linen etc, I didn't finish the seam allowances on the yellow kirtle either.  So I'm working on getting those done.  Some are only about 1/16" once the frayed edges are cut off.  In one section, nothing was left, the linen had frayed all the way to the seam line.  This will teach me to finish the seam allowances as they are sewn!  I did that with the white kirtle made for June Crown 2008.

6_03_08

I've embroidered a small piece of green linen with yellow perl cotton#5 with some Celtic Dogs.  I'm going to add it to the neckline of the yellow linen kirtle.

I'm going to use some interfacing and two layers of linen.

 

For some reason, the linen skirts are too short.  I've pulled out the hem line and I'm taking the hem down by at least 1 inch.

6_08_08

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