The sleeves are the only pieces that are a little different.  1" from the edge is straight, so that the turn back will not pucker over a bias cut.  The top edge of the sleeves, which attaches to the gore are 5" flat before the bias cut down to the cuffs.

Machine stitch all the major seams.

Sleeves pieces are sewn together first.  This forms a top seam from the shoulder to cuff.  Press open the seam allowances ( which are 1/2" throughout)

Here is that 5" sewn to 4" and left open.  All the little strings are left uncut at this stage.  Catherine says you never know when you need to sew something and you'll have the thread already for that purpose.

Next the (gore/sleeve combo) is sewn to the body.  (a really long sewing run)

That takes care of the machine stitching.  All the seam allowances (1/2 inch) are turned over and hand sewn down.

Sleeve, Inside seam, hand sewn

close up of the sleeve, inside seam, hand sewn

I've finished all the long seams and the sleeves as well.  In this Order:

1. sew sleeves

2. sew the short underarm area

3. sew the long over the shoulder seams

thread: Mettler Color#0678 silk finish 100% cotton

Revised seams  - inside of garment

Revised seam at junction of shoulder and main body of tunic  - inside of garment

revised seam at the underarm gore and sleeve.  The one side is left open on purpose .

I hope this work passes, it took a while to hand sew all these down.   I see Catherine this Saturday (gee, it kinda like a test!)

Outside of the garment showing the center sleeve seam.

The sleeve measurement.  I need to design his motto to go here.  It will be on a piece of linen either the under tunic color (apricot) or the neckline (gold).  I think gold will be best since it will match.    Yes, gold has been chosen.                                                                                                           5_08_08

OMG my work passed, YaY!!  Now nothing can be further done till the neckline embroidery is finished by Catherine.  Here is the start of her work.

My job now it to make sure the Latin of his motto is correct, order the green thread and continue to practice the design for his cuffs.

5_10_08

Perl Cotton Green: 3345 DMC #5

Burgandy: 902  DMC #5

YAY!  Done/Finished

on schedule too!

Met with Catherine yesterday.  She'd finished the collar and it's beautiful.  She has made 4 of these and none for herself.

We marked out and sewed the inside neck-hole,using 1/2" seam allowance.  Flipped the collar to the right side and measured 2 1/2" from neckline. this gives 1/4" turn under.  Clipped the edges, pinned them down and basted the collar to the tunic.  I now have to sew down the collar using the applica stitch and the yellow thread:  Mettler color 0828

7_05_08

sleeve seams & side seams to do yet (machined) then finish by hand.

Trim to add to arm cuffs

Hem will be done after a try on with the under tunic

Almost there.  Went to Catherine's house today and she wants me to use buttonhole stitch all around the collar in burgandy.

Then to use black to make herringbone stitch down the center sleeve seam and tack it down in the burgandy

Just a little to finish up on the cuff embroidery. I'll sew down the center seam, then caulk the line from end to meet end on the other side.

All inside seams are done

Trying to get Faelan to come over, so that I can measure the arms and hem.

hem the cuffs

hem the bottom

Finished the hems on the Sleeve and all the connections of the trim.

8_31_08

Put the embroidery around the edge of the collar and kept it very small so that it would not interfere with the main embroidery of the horse heads.

Some of the linen is very thin at the edges and I had one spot fray on me. I tried to tack it down, but I'm afraid that it will give out.  If this is just dry cleaned, it should stay OK.  I think he said he planned to do that.

Oh My...I'm glad I'm paranoid.  When I measured the tunic hem I give myself a huge seam allowance.  (you know measure twice and cut once)  He tried on the tunic today with the under tunic on and the green one was WAY TOO SHORT with the first hem I measured.  I let out the whole thing (about 3.5" if not more).  I'll put in 1/8" hem now.

Disaster avoided!                                                                                     9_06_08

October Crown 2008

Got up early 5:30am to get all the gear stowed into the car and pack. I was last minute with this chore for some odd reason. Went to the 7-11 store and got a block of ice and 2 bags of crushed ice for the two coolers.

I had purchased a gallon of orange juice and 3 bottles of champagne for celebration time.

If nothing else, there was scheduled two men at arms (Ash and Thorgrim) as well as my consort’s Squiring. Of course, the big one was that Duke Jade was fighting for Mistress Catherine Lorraine.

Anyway, I was ready on time. My lord called me at 8:30am and said he had to pick up the tent poles for the household sunshade. He’d be by in ½ hour. Time passed…the 9:30 meet up time passed….at 10:15am I called and left a message on his phone. Called Catherine to let her know the situation. He arrived at 11:00 and had to use my computer to renew his membership. I was not too happy at this point, having to wait for 2 hours but he did apologize profusely for the delay.

We got his papers printed which he put in his wallet and I showed him the route to take.

Off on the road at 11:30am.

We made one stop to catch a bite to eat and for me to fill up the car with gas. While at the restaurant….he didn’t have his wallet! Called my daughter..she checked the computer area and outside..no luck. We spent a good ½ hour while he had to call and cancel his bank and credit cards. Not a good day.

We got up to the site at about 3:00pm and it had started to sprinkle. Got the car unloaded with the Spartan sunshade and the household sunshade only to find…not enough room to place both tents up. The Royal Pavilion had not yet arrived and they of course take persistence, so we just laid out the Spartan shade on the ground. The Eric was small. We got my lords tent up and with the help of Nicoli (from Carson City) got his hecka heavy wooden bed up as well and then we placed all the coolers and bags in his tent while he helped me put mine up. Catherine & Isela arrived to look over the situation and drop off their coolers (again in Faelen’s tent) It was really starting to rain at this point (6pm or so) We went to have dinner with Catherine & Isela found a Pizza place that had a jazz band playing and had a very nice dinner. I had hot tea to keep me warm and the pot roast dinner with mashed potatoes. Faelan ate a pizza, Catherine the prime rib and Isela the eggplant (I believe). My lord told a story about how when he told the truth he got into trouble with the current king and he felt he should not have been punished for telling the truth to the queen. Anyway there were bad words and feelings there.

It was raining very hard when we left the restaurant. Back at the site it had let up a little and I suggested we walk from the parking lot. Faelan had his garb box and I carried two shields. Now I had my glasses on because I’d been driving with the rain drops on my glasses and the scant lighting, I could not see hardly at all…and then the rain came down….hard….totally drenched in 3 minutes…down to the underwear wet.

When I got to my tent I striped off all wet things and got into my jimmies and found that my tent was dripping around the edges. Not everything was wet but the pillows and the sleeping bag were damp in spots. I dragged them into the center, used my wet things to sop up the puddles..got into my sleeping bag and didn’t come out till morning. I did wake up a few times when the wind came howling down the hills and the tent shook a lot. Thanks to my lords hammering in of the stakes, the tent stood it’s ground…some others were not so lucky.

Saturday Morning…the sun came out and it was beautiful!

My lord, did well in the lists, going to round four. The list was small only 47 fighters, but it was heavy in chivalry with 4 or 5 Dukes (former King multiple times each).

Final round went to Duke Jade and Titus, both former Kings. I could not hear, but when Titus went up to Jade, he laid down his arms and yielded up! Unheard of…Jade consulted his consort, Catherine and she said he must fight. So they fought, and Jade won…

We were all very excited and overjoyed, but what Titus did overshadowed his victory somewhat…lots of talk afterward. Faelan was squired that night with a moving ceremony and we all had a good time afterward, following Catherine around.

On the way home, Faelan lost a pole from his truck on Golden Gate Bridge. We didn’t really find out about it till afterwards. He knew the load had shifted and asked me to pull off after we went over the bridge. He thought he’d lost some of the wine bottles he was caring back for recycle. I noticed the pole gone, but when I mentioned it, he said it was OK and it was hidden from view….ah…no…it was back on the bridge <G>.

All is all a very satisfying October Crown.