Victorian & Civil War Underwear

Home

I've made my first pair of bloomers from the McCalls pattern to the right.

I'm on my way to making a dress from this era.  I don't know which period yet.  My fabric stash will probably decide it for me.  I purchased  Simplicity 4551 Martha McCain, The Fashion Historian, the dress calls for a whopping 8.5 yards!  Even when I buy a whole bolt of linen the total amount has been under 8yrds..so I don't know. 

I do want to make a day dress.  There is to be a "Little Women" tea in May.  I will not be ready by then, but who knows.

2_11_07

After doing some research, they are not called bloomers.  That is another era.  These panties are supposed to have the crotch free since you could not take them off once the corset is on.  I didn't realize that.  Mine are sewn in the front because I just thought it plain weird not to have them that way.  So these will not be worn with a corset that goes below the waist line.  They can be worn with Tudor or Medieval dress (even if it's not period)  I'll have to make another pair with the seams undone.  I'll just chuck this up to experience. 

2_16_07

Tonight I started the process of making my first victorian corset.  I've chosen to make the Laughing Moon, Straight Seamed, Dore.  First I have to trace out each pattern piece (5 total) with all the markings.  Then I'll make a muslin up to see how it fits.  I only got 2 pattern pieces traced out tonight.  I'll hope to get the others done tomorrow. (a little later)..Since my anti virus program was still running, I finished tracing out all the pieces.  I mearged a smaller size top to a larger size bottom (yes, I'm a pear) and plan to have a 4" gap in the back for now.  The hope that when I lose a lot of weight this will still fit.  Lost 5 holiday pounds so far so that's a start at least.

The pattern also has a chemise & a set of draws and I plan to make them up as well.  I want to make the complete set so it looks something like this: Lizzy is wearing, chemise, corset, short petticoat & drawers.  It's such a femine outfit with the ribbons and lace. Of course this is a movie so it's not accurate, but I'm going to make this for myself and no one will see anyway.  I think I like the idea that under a rather plain jane dress of the 1840s, you have all that prettyness underneath like a mystery.

Once I have the muslin done, I'll place an order of the busk and the spring steel bones.

1-28-08

First Muslin

Made out of an old sheet with no bones.  The corset is too large since it can be laced up the back.  My temporary lacing strips are also too short.  I think it's ok in the body.  When I pulled on the fabric (last photo) the placement looks good all round.  Bust placement looks ok when the fabric is pulled up.

Now I have to order the spring steel stays and the busk.

When I make up the next muslin, I'll have to sew 1/4" more in the seams to make the corset gap 4" or since the front seem good, just take it off the back piece.

2_3_08

2nd try changes: took 1/8 inch on seams added a few ridgeline bones. 2-4-08

I now have a 2" gap in the back.

The top is flat across and all my flab is going up under my arms..yuck. Solutions suggested:  "fluff" the girls before they get laced in, make the corset longer by 1" at the waist or 1" longer at the bottom and take it in more at the waist.  Another suggestion was to add hip gussets and additional boneing.  And one person told me to get the DVD from laughing moon (the problem with that is I'm looking for a custom fit and the DVD will give me a generic one)...So, I'm going to make a complete corset based on the cutting above with full bones and full lacing, fluffing the girls and see what I get.  There is just no way around a quick simple corset, you have to make a full muslin.

2_6_07

So I let out the top seams on the 3rd attempt.  This one will have lining and bones.  I have the gromets set as you can see and 2 pair of plastic bones for the back.  No busk for the front.  Looks like I'll need a 13" one though.  The last photo shows the waist tape.  I'm an odd shape since it is straight across and the diagram shows a curve for most folks.  This fabric is way too thin and stretchy for a corset, it's just cotton and the lining is a pink linen.  I must remember to use the duck on the final.  This stage is before the linen lining is installed and before the bones.

I made a goof and didn't sew the edges of the lining correct on the boneing edges.  I'll have to hand sew the edges down but won't make that mistake on the real deal.

2_19_08

I've gained too much weight to make this corset.  I need to drop 20 lbs then I can try again.

12_01_09